If a rest day is absolutely needed and hiking out to one of the picturesque lakes is too much to tackle, the Spearfish Rec & Aquatics Center (605-722-1430) is a solid summer option. Rim Rock Lodge is located in the heart of the Northern Black Hills, SD and is the perfect spot for the active vacationer - hiking, climbing, biking, fishing, site-seeing and, at the end of the day, relaxing in the serenity of Spearfish Canyon. Fun! Despite the chilly winters that South Dakota is known for, Spearfish Canyon offers excellent climbing practically all year long. Positively the sickest line I have ever done. This here is the good stuff!’”, Indecent Exposure (5.11c)Indecent ExposureBlue Sky“This is an incredible climb! Cold enough for jackets and pants, and gloves probably wouldn’t have been a bad idea. Come ready to test your sobriety at the same time as your musicianship because they have all the amenities for an impromptu instrument-filled open mic just waiting for the next American Idol contestant. WOW!”, Black Slabbath (5.12a)Lord of The Flies WallBlue Sky“This truly is the route that all other Spearfish Canyon 5.12a’s should be judged against. WI2+ 8 On the north side of Spearfish is a KOA campground, offering plenty of accommodations and a pool, but rates may fluctuate. Both experienced and novice rock climbers can enjoy nearly year-round climbing on vertical routes like Oliver Twist, The Wall of Oz and Sunshine Wall. Almost directly across the road find the trail leading up the steep hill and follow to the base of the wall. The canyon is a regional favorite for hiking, climbing, biking and sightseeing. In fact, Spearfish Canyon has been featured in national climbing magazines as a great up-and-coming sport crag for its well-pocketed routes and overhangs. Spearfish Canyon in the northern Black Hills is an excellent place to learn to climb ice. Spearfish Canyon is renowned for the fall colors each year. From spring until fall, Saturday mornings include the popular farmer’s market at the city park. Take a day to tan your front side and slip and slide your way around the heady water slides, just watch for kids and yellow patches in the pools. The Spearfish City Park Campground (605-642-1340) is 25 minutes from a few crags and $20 for a single-tent site, but it offers bargain prices for group sites. Rapping in with power drills, the crew humorously called Spearfish Canyon the “Freedom Zone.” Luke Kretschmar grapples with the pocket-pulling masterpiece of Battle Cry (5.12c), Indian Wars Wall, Mohican. Right next door is The Dough Trader (605-642-2175), serving up mood lighting, too much good wine, and did we mention gourmet sourdough pizza? Since then Devils Tower has been summited thousands of times and thousands of climbing routes have been established in Custer State Park, near Mount Rushmore, and in Spearfish Canyon. Local Allison Coin climbing Blood Brother (5.12a) on Indian Wars Wall at the Mohican. It’s a very popular attraction in the Northern Hills, especially for visitors driving the Scenic Byway (US Hwy. Photo: Tyler Kaschke. If you like to get to the bottom of things at the locals’ burger and beer spot, Killian’s Tavern (605-717-1255) is the place to be. It packs a wallop with a battle-of-the-bulge crux and only has one good rest before the final push into enemy territory that leads to the anchors. In fact, Spearfish Canyon has been featured in national climbing magazines as a great up-and-coming sport crag for its well-pocketed routes and overhangs. Spearfish Canyon is one of those gems that is just far enough away from everything that you can relax and climb without the distraction of those twitchy, beta-spraying, self-proclaimed climbing gods that increasingly inhabit just about every other great crag in America. Both experienced and novice rock climbers can enjoy nearly year-round climbing on vertical routes like Oliver Twist, The Wall of Oz and Sunshine Wall. But save yourself for the rock because there are more classics than you can possibly climb in one trip to what will likely become your new favorite climbing destination. The 19-year-old female, from Douglas, Wyoming, had reportedly started hiking around 10 a.m. at Botany Bay in Spearfish Canyon. Henry Anderson has been climbing for about a year. My farm kid/well digger's ass is old enough to deserve it. He has climbed indoors and even in Spearfish Canyon. Anderson said he was excited to try out the new facility at Black Hills Base Camp. Just across the border in Wyoming, climbers can also enjoy a climb up Devils Tower, our nation’s first national monument. The hike to the Devils Bathtub was a lot of fun if you like crossing a creek a dozen times to the pool where you can swim. Spearfish Canyon is a deep but narrow gorge carved by Spearfish Creek located in Lawrence County, South Dakota, U.S., just south of Spearfish.The canyon is located within the Black Hills, located on the northern edge of the Black Hills National Forest.The Spearfish Canyon Scenic Byway travels through the Canyon from Spearfish to Cheyenne Crossing along U.S. Route 14A. Scaling the cliffs of Spearfish Canyon. Well, Guadalajara’s Mexican Restaurant & Bar (605-642-4765) has everything from humongous nacho plates and scalding fresh fajitas to one-and-done margaritas. While the climb can be a challenge, the views at the end are well worth the effort. Each month, we deliver the best that Spearfish has to offer directly to your inbox. Climbing Partners. It’s about 19 miles from Spearfish on the northern end to Cheyenne Crossing on the southern end. It was the type of cool morning that is easily under appreciated, but I’ve grown to love. Mountain Project and ... Classic Climbs for Spearfish Canyon. Spearfish Canyon Scenic Byway The canyon itself is easily accessible — Highway 14A winds right through the canyon, passing a mountain stream (Spearfish Creek) and limestone canyon walls, sometimes 1000 feet high. The ice is very reliable, not very crowded, and is usually accessed by short approaches. Well protected routes on bomber, blue & tan limestone makes for spectacular climbing. ETA: My double-car garage with 24,000 BTU cooling and 16,000 BTU heat stays 72F year round. It was a cloudy morning, with a misty feel to it. And for more summer options, Friday nights and Saturday mornings are the toast of the town. Jamie Coin enjoys the fall colors on Mephistopheles (5.13a), Purgatory Wall, the Mohican. A wonderfully hot shower can be found at the Spearfish Rec Center for $5. The rock at Spearfish is limestone – mostly tan, with large chunks of black streaks. Spearfish is a natural base camp for rock climbing enthusiasts with four major climbing destinations in and around the Black Hills, including Spearfish Canyon, The Needles in Custer State Park, spires behind Mount Rushmore National Memorial, known as the Needles of Rushmore, and Wyoming’s Devil’s Tower. The trailhead is near Spearfish Canyon Lodge and is accessible from the lodge parking lot. The breathtaking limestone palisades of this creek-carved gorge are more ancient than the Grand Canyon – albeit much closer together. Towering limestone cliffs and a rushing mountain stream keep you company along the 19-mile stretch of US Highway 14A known as Spearfish Canyon Scenic Byway. Spearfish Canyon is a beautiful drive any time of year, but Fall offers the most colorful drive through the Canyon, as Mother Nature paints the leaves in shades of yellow, gold and red to accent the evergreen backdrop. Pump factor increases the difficulty of the ending mantel move.”, Marsha Gets Creamed (5.10a)Bradyism WallBig Picture Gully“Big reaches and pumpy as hell! Spearfish is also within a short drive to other popular climbing destinations in the Black Hills, such as the Needles in Custer State Park and the Emancipation Rockformation behind Mount Rushmore. Technical edges with a little power tossed in for good measure. Find climbing areas and routes in Spearfish Canyon and discover photos, user reviews, and detailed route info like climbing type and grade Gradually climbing from the town of Spearfish on the northern edge of the Black Hills, this canyon is one of the gateways into the heart of an ancient mountain range. On the north end of Black Hills National Forest in South Dakota is a wilderness of limestone—lots of limestone. Would be a tricky onsight. Current climbing forecast for Spearfish Canyon. Geared toward human-powered, low-impact adventure travel, this shop is about the only thing saving you from a bummer trip if you happen to have left your shoes, belay device, harness, or any other fundamental piece of gear at home. Additionally, if ice climbing is more your style, Spearfish Canyon is home to three climbable flows. For the college-style drinker, refuge can be found at the False Bottom (605-642-1552), with the occasional musical performance, plenty of table games, and Long Island Iced Teas. The Back Porch and B&B Bar (605-642-2134) puts rowdy in a glass and serves it hot with live bands, a seemingly clothing-optional atmosphere, and a grimy 1980s feel; if you have an Appetite for Destruction concert T-shirt, pack it. All routes are in the WI2 - WI4 range, and there is potential to add some very difficult mixed routes in the Terminator Pillar amphitheatre. South Dakota's Spearfish Canyon, The VC and other South Dakota Limestone by Mikel Cronin (2011-05-04) In a single location? Spearfish Canyon is the ultimate hub for climbing, biking, hiking, and ATV riding in the Spearfish Black Hills Spearfish Canyon Lodge, located among the beautiful Black Hills, is the perfect getaway for families, couples, and outdoor lovers! If you can hold on, you can get ’er dun and take it all the way to the top.”, Peace Pipe (5.10c)Trail of Tears WallThe Mohican“This route is a long, slightly overhanging line with killer moves. Spearfish is a natural base camp for rock climbing enthusiasts with four major climbing destinations in and around the Black Hills, including Spearfish Canyon, The … Crow Peak Brewing Company (605-717-0006), a monolith of craft beer taps and fair-priced pizza, overlooks the elegant Black Hills. Crimps, monos, and great holds galore await your hands and feet that are shaking with the anticipation of an excellent send!”, Flight of the Bumblebee (5.12d)Pheromone WallBlue Sky“Amazing climbing on stellar stone. Home ; Find climbing areas. Here you can grab some quality homegrown produce or shoot the breeze with a local artist. Stop in, grab a guidebook, and get some beta from the locals who have plenty more to offer than just directions to the best crags. This article originally appeared in the August 2015 issue of our print edition. Spearfish Canyon, The VC & other Black Hills Limestone The Black Hills in Western South Dakota is one of North America’s premier limestone sport climbing areas. World map of rock climbing areas; The 20 closest climbing areas around a location; Rock climbing areas along your itinerary; Add a rock climbing area ... Rock Climbing Guide Spearfish Canyon Limestone Camping near spearfish canyon. And just in case you’re not in the mood for juicy beef, you’re in luck. Do this route! Long, flowy, sustained, techy, and super-exposed. Once accessible only by horseback, Spearfish Canyon’s narrow, 1000-foot walls are among the most spectacular scenery in the Black Hills. Another lifetime’s worth of climbing sits only an hour away in the Black Hills, but for now, we’ll focus on Spearfish. It’s a dramatic landscape of towering limestone cliffs carved by the waters of Spearfish Creek. Get on this awesome route!”, Pakistani Route (5.9+)Big Black FaceSunshine“Beautiful pocketed stone. The canyon’s climbing excitement lasts year-round. My partner and I both agree it is definitely in the top three sport climbs either of us have ever done. Enjoy the scenic drive through the canyon or skip into the rad little town for live music and a hefty brew. — A lost hiker who inadvertently found herself on a steep rock face in Spearfish Canyon was successfully rescued via high-angle/rope rescue Wednesday. If you are traveling fancy and have an RV, sites range from $25 to $39 for basic to full hook-up sites. With $1 beer cans on Tuesdays, a tasty grill-focused menu, and a five-star Yelp review, what climber wouldn’t want to stop here for a post-send debrief and recharge? Spearfish Canyon is the Northern Hills' number one natural attraction. The Sunshine Wall parking area is the large pullout on the left about two miles up the road. Here you’ll find a plethora of aggressive sport routes tailored to those looking to bump up their game among the serene backdrop of lush forests, waterfalls, and creeks. Downtown Friday Nights runs from June through the first week of September and hosts live music, plenty of vendors, and a closed-off main street for a traditional small-town block party. Austin and I had a pretty good idea on where to find it. The 76 Trail offers breathtaking panoramic views of Spearfish Canyon. Don't remember which was more fun, fixing wells or climbing windmill towers with wasp nests on top. *Stats are for the immediate Spearfish area. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. The high limestone cliffs, along with various waterfalls, add much to the photo opportunities here. A more bare-bones alternative is the Rod and Gun Campground located about 17 miles up the canyon. Climbing Devils Tower. All Routes Trad Sport Boulder Ice / Mixed. We know you want one. Easier on the tendons than Big Train but slightly more technical. And if you’re looking to kick it up a notch there just so happens to be the biker bar of all biker bars. You also get the peace of mind that comes with sleeping near where the final scenes of Dances With Wolves were filmed. At the High Mountain Climbing Gym in Spearfish they can be. Without having to deal with the elements? We are the only facility in the northern Black Hills that provides memory care in a skilled nursing home setting. Although the drinking wells in this town are few, they are world-class—at least as far as we’re concerned. This route has it all and then some. As the elevation changes nearly 2,000 feet from one end of the Canyon to the other, the weather and the stage of changing leaves can vary. Spearfish Canyon is definitely the place to go to avoid the crowds – we were there on a Saturday and a Sunday in the best areas the canyon had to offer, and ran into only one other party the entire time. We began in Spearfish Canyon on the Iron Creek Trail. Considering it’s one of the finest routes in the canyon, one would think it would get a little more attention. Custer State Park Climbing Known to climbers as the ‘Needles of South Dakota’, this area is a perfect place to enjoy your first day on the rock. All informations, geo location, photos, videos and betas about Spearfish Canyon are available on ClimbingAway ! Brute strength! Spearfish Canyon is one of those gems that is just far enough away from everything that you can relax and climb without the distraction of those twitchy, beta-spraying, self-proclaimed climbing gods that increasingly inhabit just about every other great crag in America. Excellent introduction to the harder routes in Spearfish. Located right across from the Spearfish Canyon Lodge parking lot, the 76 Trail is a short yet steep hike (1.2-miles each direction) that leads you to the rim of gorgeous Spearfish Canyon. You can spend all day exploring South Dakota's Spearfish Canyon, The VC and other South Dakota Limestone by Mikel Cronin (2011-05-04) [Mikel Cronin] on Amazon.com. Spearfish Canyon. Blackbird Espresso (605-717-0022) definitely hits the spot. Spearfish Canyon boasts some of the most beautiful limestone rocks in the country, which attract climbers from around the world because of the excellent pockets and overhangs that distinguish them. The top-notch limestone routes in Spearfish Canyon show classic pocket climbing at its best. Another must-send!”. Bouldering in the Black Hills. From Spearfish, drive through Spearfish Canyon and turn right at Cheyenne Crossing (toward Newcastle). It’s $16 a night with seven campsites and a single restroom. A few years into the canyon’s development, a homeowner notified the Forest Service, which knew nothing of the climbing. It’s only a matter of time. Photo: Tyler Kaschke, Bugs Bunny (5.8)The Bunny SlopeSunshine“Fun! Show: All Routes. Whether you just need to know where to camp nearby or you want to plan a free camping road trip, we've got you covered.You can simply use your smart phone's GPS to find camping near you or even use our trip planner to plan your route from coast to coast.. Our community provides the best free camping information available. 14A). Mystery moves! © 2021 Pocket Outdoor Media Inc. All Rights Reserved. Spearfish Canyon has been recognized by national rock climbing magazines for its great climbing and scenery. (5.11d)Ice BoxSpearfish Canyon“Sick moves on sweet slabby to overhanging stone that is nearly perfect! All the holds are just good enough. Base Camp Adventure Sports (605-559-331) set up shop in 2011 and quickly became Spearfish’s top specialty retailer. Download the instant digital version or get a shiny one in the mail. Spearfish Canyon Healthcare was established in 1956 in the Spearfish community. Flanagan’s Irish Pub (605-722-3526) is a go-to for the thirsty climber seeking asylum in the arms of an Irish Car Bomb. Get your morning started here or check out the popular and intimate open mic on Tuesdays. Each adventurous pursuits in their own right, but what if all three could be enjoyed together? It is best to call ahead if youre headed into the higher elevations during the F… But let’s say an overwhelming burrito craving has overtaken you. The changing of the leaves normally peaks during the first week of October. Climbers are asked to refrain from trekking the peak in June, as it is a ceremonial time for many tribes in the area who regard the monument as sacred ground. Monthly climbing area averages are for the weather station SPEARFISH, which is 4 miles away and 192 feet below the location used for the Spearfish Canyon climbing area forecasts. Do it over and over again!”, The Euphamiah Beresford Memorial (5.11a)The Butt Rocks WallSunshine“Solid, sustained movement on well-mapped-out holds will ensure a rowdy, good ol’ pumpy climb that might just have you saying, ‘Dagnabbit! Find a Free Campsite. The facility has provided long term care to thousands of local citizens and partnered with the local hospital on patient discharges. The canyon is a beautiful drive and is full of many great short hikes to waterfalls like Roughlock and Spearfish falls. Spearfish Canyon is a true natural wonder, one that Frank Lloyd Wright found “even more miraculous” than the Grand Canyon! Touchy-feely technique! Mountain Project's determination of the most popular, highly-rated routes. Fun!”, Dragonfly (5.9)Pheromone WallBlue Sky“I climbed this the other day between working my 5.12 projects, and it still sent a chill down my spine. With close to 600 routes and roughly 19 crags (a higher concentration than anywhere else in the region), you’ll be hard-pressed to leave the quality climbing here. The area’s icy waterfalls and frozen canyon walls also attract ice climbers in the heart of winter. And no town would be complete without the token Irish pub. Exposure! Get route beta, photos, and topos at mountainproject.com. If you only have one morning to spare on your road trip to our fine canyon, start your session with Tasting Time, then do Indecent Exposure, get on Slabbath, and cool down with either The Beast or The Conch. If hiking isn’t your cup of tea, the canyon also has rock climbing, picnicking, fishing, swimming, bird watching, and dining. And on the off chance town life is not for you, check out Pactola Lake for a variety of recreational opportunities, including mountain biking, trail running, scuba diving, kayaking, jet skiing, and cliff jumping. You will not be disappointed.”, Ya Bud! Powered by the National Weather Service Digital Forecast Database. On the cheaper and faster side is Barbacoa’s Burritos and Wraps (605-722-1774), a one-stop burrito retreat that will satisfy the dirtbag on a budget with huge burritos and a surplus of salsas that will keep you busy for several visits.