You can do this with polyurethane glues too, though I’ve found most of these will foam out through the joint in spots anyway. However, Titebond III exhibits greater thermal plasticity, which is a technical way of expressing that it loses more strength as temperature increases. As to numbers, tension, compression, elongation and other modulus figures, well they’re application dependent, but typically show the relatively weak interface, though (again) if this is better then the PVA attributes in the specific application – a moot point. Titebond also makes a hide glue, excellent for many furniture projects as it’s water soluble before drying. I sealed the bottom of the posts where it was going into the concrete. I’m wondering if the “water resistant” TB2 is really up to a few months of humidity above 90% for outdoor furniture. Bits of wood fitted and shaped over a puncture or damaged area and pared down or carved inside to reduce parts that might adversely affect the movement or passage of air in the cavity. Hide glue is strong, but can be easily parted with a wet palett knife. Titebond is known for the best in construction adhesives, flooring adhesives, caulks and sealants, as well as the industry's most renowned line of woodworking glues. $33.02 (1) Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue. Got plenty of deck screws in there too, but the thing was rock solid with glue before I added the screws. I think Marc already touched on this when he said he didn’t want to stock 3 types of glues, but as a hobbyist, if I stock 3 types, I’ll have 3 bottles of 2/3 full expired glue. So…how can I extend the working time of Titebond III? where I want to make sure a joint is particularly strong I would use one of the traditional glues and I would also only use the traditional glues on instruments. of my tap water and it’s maximum is 108° which is probably why I have been experiencing some problems with glue failure. Thanks for the kind response and all the definitive information, it is very much appreciated!… and I enjoyed your humor in reference to the hot water delamination issue with epoxy! Another wonderful application of Titebond 3 is using it as a wood sealer. By Paul Sellers – When I visited Highland Hardware last month I picked up several things I wanted to test out and one of them was a bottle of the Titebond Liquid Hide Wood Glue from Titebond. I would be interested to know if the Gorilla Wood Glue has similar strength. Glue isn’t a great filler. And hide glue is reverseable; i.e., if you need to do a repair you can loosen a hide-glue joint with water. Wood glue needs to be absorbed into the fibers in order for it to have the strongest bond. i’m restoring a vintage set of mahogany bongos that some of the staves have come unglued or separated. I’ve used quite a bit of it over the years, though in recent decades, not so much with the advent of epoxy formulations. I must say I feel right at home with hide glue over PVA. I am currently using another brand of liquid Hide which is real Hide but with added urea, this needs to be heated to 140°F prior to use but the label reads hot tap water only. I’ve used all three of these PVA’s over the years, but admittedly, much more often TiteBond II or most frequently III. Maybe I will give the old brown glue a go. This makes application easy end efficient. Not much except cyanoacrylates will stick to it, though some polyurethanes do too (like PL Premium). Yet. I wonder if it will ever truly harden up? I’m also concerned about the color. All I know is it’s secure enough to do its job. TiteBond III does pass the type 1 WBP test, but just barely. But my gut reaction is that it’s fine. My fingers are covered with it for an hour or two at a time. DUDE!!! And if budget isn’t a factor and you don’t mind paying significantly more, you may as well just go with Titebond III and cover all the bases. Sure enough, everything held together until one humid spell in August and the whole instrument just started coming apart. If I had one I would probably get some TB III in a small bottle for that project. i guess a third reason could be that lutherie is rarely prone to change. Titebond Liquid Hide Wood Glue lists cyanoguanidine (used in the manufacture of plastics and pharmaceuticals) and ammonium thiocyanate (used chiefly as a herbicide and in textile printing). The makers recommend clamping and that’s fine, but my tests showed that there was no discernible difference between clamped boards and simple rub-jointed joints. Instruments like this rely purely on glue to hold all of the components together. I would look into the marine industry adhesives. I see so many different glues that Titebond sells. Lastly, have a look into birdsmouth construction techniques. Speaking of glue … Titebond Liquid Hide Glue, 8-Ounces #5013 4.6 out of 5 stars 763. What glue would you recommend for building laminated wood canoe paddles? Concerning glue creep, a boatbuilding friend of mine once glued teak gunwale strips on a 30′ steamboat, bent around the hull using epoxy and no screws. Rub-jointing is simply planing two meeting edges straight and near square and then applying glue. Even if you use all hardwoods, you still may confront density and expansion issues. But it would be nice to have actual numbers to know exactly how much strength is being sacrificed and if it’s enough to worry about. Try that with yellow glue. That’s a far cry from even the 3600 psi shear strength for original Titebond. Titebond Original is for interior use only, Titebond II is water-resistant, and Titebond III is waterproof (well, technically its MORE water-resistant). As my workshop is unheated and the temperatures dropped again, the open time was variable but that should improve in the next months. What is your advice? I know this is a very old post and I think I need to update my latest findings, as I didn’t have much success in the beginning with titebond maybe due to humidity but what I later discovered was that the glue was out dated. Wow this is alot of discussion around glue…I love every word of it! And just to show my complete ignorance, I thought Titebond original was also referred to as the “carpenter yellow glue” or “yellow glue”. One other question(s), since I’m also new to laminating procedures, etc… $19.99 $ 19. You made the right choice in my opinion. As for mixing woods, it’s hard to say. Anyone have any experience on whether this glue will work for such a project? 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